4. Parrot CAGE BOTTOM

There is a plastic base with a wire grate in most parrot cages. The grate keeps the parrot from stepping into their droppings. Anyway some of the droppings stick to it. So it can be taken out right away. The grate can be used as a separator when two incompatible parrots must be in one parrot cage for a short time for example during transportation. Of course it can not be used for a long period.

By the time the material of the plastic base gets brittle because it becomes gradually worn by the sprinkled. Ask the shop where you have bought the parrot cage if they supply a replacement base after it breaks or when it is completely unusable. If the tray can be pulled out, it is more practical. It is better if you can clean the floor without setting the wire top aside. But also it is difficult to put only the top over the parrots if they do not want to return in the parrot cage.

5. Parrot Cage LOCATION

Normally the stand which goes with the parrot cage is usually 50-60 cm. This is very low for observing the parrots, they have to be at eye level because it disturbs the birds if someone looks from above into the cage. If the parrot cage is hung on a wall, the bird is covered from one side. Avoid direct sunlight, close radiators and drafts. But have in mind that the room should receive sunlight once a day.Also because parrots should take part in family life, reserve several places for the parrot cage in the house. You will need two hooks fastened to the wall in the appropriate rooms, but not the kitchen and the bedroom. In this way the bird can be brought along and you will not worry that you parrot will damage something with its beak. If you have bought the parrot recently, a certain reticence in this respect is normally .But do not forget about the hygiene even when you become more intimate with the bird.

6. Parrot Cage Stand and Climbing Tree

To chain the parrot by one foot to the parrot stand all day long is against the proper treatment of the bird. The stand is to be used in addition to the parrot cage. The tray catches parrot droppings and other debris produced by it. Also the parrot cages should provide a climbing tree because a single perch offers only few climbing. The whole is set into an outdoor umbrella stand or a Christmas-tree stand. Trim branches to the desired size and then nail or screw them together. Brush them wet at first to avoid dust and insecticides which adhere to them. Check the leaves for “little beasties” which you do not want to have in the house. Arrange the branches so that the parrot does not expel its droppings to the lower ones but it is difficult, because they always hit something. You can buy an artificial climbing tree where this problem is already considered. A flat, ladderlike structure which is held vertical by a rectangular umbrella stand, has its advantages.

7. Bird Rooms

There should be sunlight and warmth in the room. Use”truelite” tubes during winter because the photoperiod should be at least twelve hours. “Truelite” tubes produce artificial but similar to natural daylight. Turn them on at 4:00 AM using a timer so that the twelve-hour “day” will end at the same time as sunset. At nights also the room should not be completely dark. Leave an 8-watt bulb switched on if there is no light from outside.

Set a grating into the window opening to get direct contact with the outside air into the parrot cage. On the other hand the grating will not allow parrots to get away. Choose the interior furnishings which will not injure the parrots. Enclose the heat source with a grating if there is a possibility that the parrots could burn their feet because of the high temperature. The walls should be with Resopal or roofer’s tin, with a washable paint like those in the bathrooms, with a coating of whitewash, without paper. Choose the material of the floor which is easy to clean. Caulk it and then cover it with sand.

A. We suggest a massive brick house for parrots , whose interior rooms are covered with 30 cm layer of unpolluted forest earth. On this layer there is a pile of tree roots , room-high tree trunks and rotted tree parts. It is good suggestion but not for everyone. Those owners who live in a rented dwelling will not use it. Bird rooms vary depending on different circumstances. These comments here are only examples and the same is with the next section on aviaries.

1. SHAPE AND DIMENSIONS

The best dimensions for parrot cages are about 40 x 40 x 60 cm and the best shape is rectangular. They will prevent birds from turning disease and twisting of the head because of the lack of orientation within the wire circle. Parrot cages have four bent walls and come together at the top. If you often take out your parrot, it will need not very big parrot cage. When you visit friends or simply when you are traveling with your bird, parrot cages should fit into the vehicle. It is optimal to have both small travel cage and a large room cage. Parrot could climb around more easily if cage wires runs horizontally.

2. PERCHES

In general the parrot cages are equipped with too smooth perches with no variety of diameters for the bird’s foot. You should roughen up them with a file or rasp and make them thinner in several spots. Put two or three perches in parallel lines, not crosswise them to avoid droppings of falling on the lower perch. The top perch should allow the bird to be in an upright position at least 1 cm from the roof and its tail feathers should not touch the wire in bending forward. Also birds like sitting on the upper perch when they sleep because they feel more secure. Even if the space under the parrot cage roof is not enough, the bird will sit up, but in a bent position. On the other hand, too large space means that the interior of the parrot cages is not proper used. Birds use the lower perch to reach the food which is usually located lower than the door.Outside there is another perch which extends out beyond one side.It is on top of the parrot cages. The parrot requires space for its tail feathers When it sits on the end of this perch, its droppings will not fall into the dishes or on the cage wires.

3. DISHES AND DOOR

Fasten dishes for parrots carefully to prevent squeezing through the opening. You should not allow bird to push them out from the inside. Use a fastening device to close off the resultant openings. If you want to equip the parrot cages with automatic food dispensers, fasten them with a clamp to the wires above the dish. The fastening procedure can be demonstrated during purchasing the food dispenser for the parrot cages. Install the openings for the dishes not below the door opening.According to R. Low the food dispensers are not for real bird lovers who care for the parrots and feed them daily. Also the food supply can block up in the neck and the parrots can not reach the food .It is possible that an unappetizing layer of dust to be formed on the bottom of the dish. Furthermore the contents can be spilled all over the floor when the birds hang on the outside of the parrot cages. In general,the typical commercial dispensers can be pushed away easily by the birds ,so use them in parrot cages not for a long period.

If you exert a force to open the door then it is closed in proper way. Doors, open downward are better because they are less dangerous for injuring parrots .To prevent birds from hitting by droppings, use natural branch fastened to the top on the proper side of parrot cages. If the door has hinges on the side, be careful for protruding wire ends to be bent away with pliers. Fasten those doors that are hinged at the top or pulled up, to be kept open against bird locking itself out. The better is the following: The front of the parrot cages is hinged as a door with additional small door. In that way the bird is able fly directly to its perch.This helps also when you have a recalcitrant bird to be put back into the parrot cage if there is a wide opening. In the beginning of taming process you can fasten an entrance perch in parrot cages in the door opening to facilitate the bird’s getting in and out, this will be an advantage.