Although most people think of a Labrador Retreiver and Pointer, when the subject comes to hunting,
Spaniels have always been favored buy some because they make exceptional all around gun/bird dogs.
Not only can they be trained to locate and retrieve game, they are excellent at “flushing out”
game birds such as grouse and pheasant from the low ground cover that makes for their habitat.
In addition, most spaniels are proficient swimmers and can be used to flush and retrieve water-fowl.
Although breeds like the Cocker Spaniel
and Springer Spaniel are seen often as
pets these days, they have
nevertheless retained their strong hunting instincts and most (with the proper training) can excel at
the tasks they were originally bred for.
My personal favourite is the “cocker”, to which I have an special fondness, due to memories of my youth when my father
and uncle used to hunt pheasant on the Yorkshire Moors. I gave up hunting years ago, but since those days I’ve always
owned a Springer or a Cocker Spaniel
Nowadays, they are amongst the most popular pet dog breeds and it’s not a wonder - with their shiny coats (which come in
an abundance of colours) and big beautiful eyes they are difficult to resist.
Playful (they make good throw-ball dogs), loyal and ever by your side they also make great companions for the entire family.

Guinea pigs love to play and have fun and that is why guinea pig toys are so important. Toys make guinea pigs fell secure in their home and keep them occupied at the same time. Just remember to purchase safe toys for your guinea pig. Some great toys for guinea pigs are tunnels and hideouts. These will keep your guinea pig stimulated and happy for days on end. Do not keep to many toys in their cages as guinea pigs need lots of space to roam around without toys getting in their way. The best thing to do to prevent boredom is to not keep the same toys in there cage at all times …. Swap out different toys now and then to give your guinea pig some variety. There are some toys to avoid with guinea pigs, especially exercise wheels. They have been known to hurt guinea pigs spines and feet. A guinea pigs body was not designed to use wheels or exercise balls. Also be sure to avoid to small of toys that your guinea pig could choke on. To ensure that your guinea pig lives a long, happy and prosperous life it is essential that your guinea pig maintains a healthy diet. A typical guinea pig food diet consists of fresh water, hay, pellets, vitamin C and some fresh vegetables. When selecting the proper food for your guinea pig be sure to read the ingredients carefully. Look for a guinea pig pellet food that has vitamin C in it, and avoid foods with a high amount of corn. Typically a guinea pig should eat 1/8 of a cup of pellets a day (check the package for recommended serving sizes) along with hay and some vegetables. Food should be stored in a cool dark place for proper preservation of freshness. Most guinea pig pellets are primarily alfalfa which is great for young guinea pigs, and pregnant guinea pigs. Once your guinea pig has reached a year old switching to Timothy pellets is a good idea as it is lower in calcium which will prevent any issues with urinary-tract infections. I hope this article helps you with caring for your guinea pig properly!

4. Parrot CAGE BOTTOM

There is a plastic base with a wire grate in most parrot cages. The grate keeps the parrot from stepping into their droppings. Anyway some of the droppings stick to it. So it can be taken out right away. The grate can be used as a separator when two incompatible parrots must be in one parrot cage for a short time for example during transportation. Of course it can not be used for a long period.

By the time the material of the plastic base gets brittle because it becomes gradually worn by the sprinkled. Ask the shop where you have bought the parrot cage if they supply a replacement base after it breaks or when it is completely unusable. If the tray can be pulled out, it is more practical. It is better if you can clean the floor without setting the wire top aside. But also it is difficult to put only the top over the parrots if they do not want to return in the parrot cage.

5. Parrot Cage LOCATION

Normally the stand which goes with the parrot cage is usually 50-60 cm. This is very low for observing the parrots, they have to be at eye level because it disturbs the birds if someone looks from above into the cage. If the parrot cage is hung on a wall, the bird is covered from one side. Avoid direct sunlight, close radiators and drafts. But have in mind that the room should receive sunlight once a day.Also because parrots should take part in family life, reserve several places for the parrot cage in the house. You will need two hooks fastened to the wall in the appropriate rooms, but not the kitchen and the bedroom. In this way the bird can be brought along and you will not worry that you parrot will damage something with its beak. If you have bought the parrot recently, a certain reticence in this respect is normally .But do not forget about the hygiene even when you become more intimate with the bird.

6. Parrot Cage Stand and Climbing Tree

To chain the parrot by one foot to the parrot stand all day long is against the proper treatment of the bird. The stand is to be used in addition to the parrot cage. The tray catches parrot droppings and other debris produced by it. Also the parrot cages should provide a climbing tree because a single perch offers only few climbing. The whole is set into an outdoor umbrella stand or a Christmas-tree stand. Trim branches to the desired size and then nail or screw them together. Brush them wet at first to avoid dust and insecticides which adhere to them. Check the leaves for “little beasties” which you do not want to have in the house. Arrange the branches so that the parrot does not expel its droppings to the lower ones but it is difficult, because they always hit something. You can buy an artificial climbing tree where this problem is already considered. A flat, ladderlike structure which is held vertical by a rectangular umbrella stand, has its advantages.

7. Bird Rooms

There should be sunlight and warmth in the room. Use”truelite” tubes during winter because the photoperiod should be at least twelve hours. “Truelite” tubes produce artificial but similar to natural daylight. Turn them on at 4:00 AM using a timer so that the twelve-hour “day” will end at the same time as sunset. At nights also the room should not be completely dark. Leave an 8-watt bulb switched on if there is no light from outside.

Set a grating into the window opening to get direct contact with the outside air into the parrot cage. On the other hand the grating will not allow parrots to get away. Choose the interior furnishings which will not injure the parrots. Enclose the heat source with a grating if there is a possibility that the parrots could burn their feet because of the high temperature. The walls should be with Resopal or roofer’s tin, with a washable paint like those in the bathrooms, with a coating of whitewash, without paper. Choose the material of the floor which is easy to clean. Caulk it and then cover it with sand.

A. We suggest a massive brick house for parrots , whose interior rooms are covered with 30 cm layer of unpolluted forest earth. On this layer there is a pile of tree roots , room-high tree trunks and rotted tree parts. It is good suggestion but not for everyone. Those owners who live in a rented dwelling will not use it. Bird rooms vary depending on different circumstances. These comments here are only examples and the same is with the next section on aviaries.